This is Anatoli Boukreev's story of the 1996 Everest deaths (co-written with an American journalist). Boukreev was the head guide for Scott Fischer's expedition, and he wrote the book mainly because he thought that Jon Krakauer had unfairly blamed him in his book, "Into Thin Air".

The very interesting contrasts between the two books come mainly from the perspectives of the authors.

Boukreev was one of the most well-respected high altitude climbers in the world (he has since died in an avalanche). He was guiding for Scott Fischer's expedition. He writes mainly about his own team, Mountain Madness.

Krakauer was an accomplished low-altitude climber who was with Rob Hall's expedition as a client/journalist. He had no previous Himalayan experience. He writes mainly about his own team, Adventure Consultants.

In "Into Thin Air" Krakauer makes many comments about how Boukreev did things that were "dubious" behaviors for a guide (such as climbing without oxygen). He quotes an anonymous member of Boukreev's team as saying that Boukreev "cut and ran when they needed him most."

Boukreev admits that he was more comfortable thinking of himself as a senior team member and climbing resource than as a typical guide. However, he also states that he was performing exactly the role that Fischer hired him to do.

Neither side disputes that on the day of the summit attempt, Boukreev fixed the ropes on the Hillary Step, was the first to summit, and started down for camp before many of his clients arrived at the top. Neither also disputes that Boukreev personally saved three of his clients by venturing out from his tent that night (three times) when no one else was willing to leave camp and rescue them.

But the spins they put on the agreed-upon facts are incredibly different.

For instance, Krakauer says that Boukreev carried one oxygen bottle in case of emergencies, but ditched his pack and gave the oxygen to another guide to carry. Boukreev says he carried one oxygen bottle in case he needed it, but when he decided he didn't need it he gave it to the other guide, who was running low. Krakauer never mentions that the other guide actually used the extra oxygen himself.

Personally, I buy Boukreev's version. It just hangs together better. And when you look at it, Rob Hall's group lost two guides and two clients, plus they would have lost another client if he hadn't managed to miraculously save his own life (though not his frostbitten hands, which were amputated).

On the other hand, Scott Fischer's group lost only Fischer himself, and none of their clients ended up permanently injured. The difference in the death tolls are entirely due to Boukreev's rescues.

Now that I've read both books, I have to say that Krakauer comes off sounding like a know-nothing jerk, who only thinks he knew what was going on. But, and this shouldn't be too surprising, his book is easier to read and the narrative flows better.

The answers to the biggest mysteries, though, died with Rob Hall and Scott Fischer. --This text refers to the Paperback edition.